Getting infected with fashion in Lithuania
Recently Lithuanian capital Vilnius saw masses of fashion-hungry media, bloggers, fashionistas, socialites, designers and general public to gather at the Modern Art Centre for the 16th Lithuanian Autumn / Winter ’14-’15 fashion event – ‘Fashion Infection’. Like nearly every March it presented a number of talented Baltic-Nordic designers, from well established ones to newly infected by the magical world of fashion. This 3-day event once again proved that Baltics are getting extremely fashion-conscious with its local designers setting new rules and trends rather than following the ones launched by global fashion houses.
Below we have included reviews of nearly each collection that made our hearts beat faster, heads go round and pulse jump through the roof.
/ FASHION INFECTION / DAY 1
A young and talented designer Ieva Daugirdaite has founded her label few years ago at a new talent event ‘Injection’. But don’t get fooled by Ieva’s recent career launch. Her works have been already noticed by Vogue Italy and honor to open this year’s ‘Fashion Infection’ was well deserved. A collection with no name has been inspired by 10 rules of good design and definitely got our thumbs up for its overall aesthetics. Bold, strict colour contrasts paired with dimmed, dusty monochromes and sharp tailoring worked wonders creating clean, feminine silhouette. Chunky and structured patented leather bag-packs, designer’s signature pieces since her debut in 2011, were also worth noticing.
/ DOVILE CIBULSKAITE & ANA ROMANOVA /
These runway new comers decided to debut their first catwalk show with a fashion challenge – to choose sport and religion as a combined theme for their collection. According to the designers these two areas are both very different and yet very similar. Collection’s tittle ‘Pure? 01’ gave designers a space for an open dialogue between these two terms – sport as religion and religion as a way of sport – while trying to find a golden middle between both definitions. The collection itself offers a combination of sporty silhouettes in the 50 tones of white and number of light, nearly weightless cuts.
Once founded at the ‘Injection’ in 2011, the ambitious duet presented their ready-to-wear collection for the third time. Famous for finding their inspirations in cultural heritage, interpreted in the most unexpected and sometimes ironic ways, this collection was no exception. Sharp men tailoring inspired silhouettes, bright colours, together with ethnical embroidered patterns inspired by Easter egg decor elements created a look of a woman, ironically the morning after – Easter breakfast. Mix up of the seasons? Maybe, but we definitely liked the ironic make-up detail – a drop of white salad dressing on the corner of lips instead of a red lipstick. Genius!
/ KRISTAR DESIGN BY KRISTINA VIKOREN /
This was the second collection for a Norway based Lithuanian designer who also has been discovered during a new talent event ‘Injection’ in 2013. Her ready-to-wear label ‘Kristar’ represents a new interpretation of sporty punk movement – keeping it refined with a hint of unleashed freedom. This time, Kristina’s work was easily recognisable by her signature graphic prints, inspired by Norwegian nature, and colour coding. Each shade in her garments has a certain task – red blocks ‘the bad eye’, white symbolises a new beginning and all the shades of grey shows the development of a human – so you can choose the one that suits your needs.
/ FASHION INFECTION DAY 2 /
/ KRISTINA KRUOPENYTE /
Kristina is a real old-timer of the ‘Fashion Infection’, who is capable of representing a yearly collection while productively working with individual clientele. In her latest collection for women and men designer encouraged to mix elements of feminine and masculine garments in the most unexpected ways to form unique looking outfits. Bold, clear-cut silhouettes were inspired by moderns sculptures, different shapes, graphics, paintings, technology and optical illusions. As well as the presented garments, collection’s silhouettes were very different too – from stiff and layered one, to light and transparent. The whole collection was finished with a line of statement leather accessories – handbags, clothes and other leather goods.
/ AKVILE JANCAUSKAITE /
Another fresh face of this year’s ‘Injection’ competition, Akvile is London based designer who already had a chance to work with such well known fashion names as Maarten van der Horst and Louise Gray. Her debut collection ‘Zine’ is designer’s fashion story. While presenting a newly formed sub-culture, which mixes punk and zine styles, it took us back to the 90’s. This retrospective time and culture journey made us see old customs and previous sub-cultures in different, objective light. The post punk inspired designs were mixed with such classic cuts like trench coat, creating totally new and fresh look. The collection was also full of contrasts – latex paired with jersey and cotton materials – that were used to express the meaning of ‘Zinesis’ – a sub-culture in search of the unexpected while constantly moving forward.
While spending a year studying industrial and graphic design, Ugne found her talent for designing clothes. Today she can be proud of her collections that won her designer’s name and prizes in numerous competitions. Including ‘Injection’ that led her to present one of her collections at the ‘Fashion Infection’. The title of her latest collection said it all – ‘CosJ or Cosmo Jesus’. It captured and illustrated the meaning of the key symbol in Christianity – Jesus – and how it’s interpreted in a new cosmic era, where religion has become an outer space and Jesus – an astronaut. The key element of the collection was prints that decorated the garments or even formed the entire look.
/ SANDRA STRAUKAITE /
A face of Lithuania’s avant-garde scene Sandra Straukaite is also the loving ‘mother’ and one of the founders of the event. As well as her teenage ‘baby’ Sandra’s new collection thrived with wilderness in urban surroundings. Her approach left no doubts: you either love or hate her aesthetics as there is no place for indifference. This time Sandra’s collection was peppered with elements of the past – long trails of fabric at the back of classic cut dresses, floaty long skirts and majestically oversized trenches. Layering, oversized silhouettes, bold colouring and graphics were the main elements of her signature style for which Sandra gets a unique recognition at home and abroad.
/ FASHION INFECTION DAY 3 /
The ones who can still recall designer’s debut collection at ‘Fashion Infection’ 2008, will agree that during the last few years Diana has grown as a talented designer and developed her very own style with specific aesthetics. This year’s collection ‘Pando’ was born out of a collaboration with a young, unisex, premium jeans wear brand ‘Pando’. The low-key garments with lose silhouettes and tailored coats represented a soul-punk with an independent world-view, always in search for new ideas and ways of expressing freedom. Diana believes that clothes people wear help to free their souls, express lifestyles in the most recognisable ways. And this time we cannot agree less.
Well-recognised clothing and accessories designer Laura Dailideniene, whose label Daili you also can find at our online boutique kristinagoeswest.com, in her latest collection has continued with the theme of the label: fragile and unstoppable fashion. Garments created for unique, sensual and independent woman were inspired by new technologies, innovations and the way they influence our environment, shape and graphics. Laura’s signature Origami elements haven’t been forgotten either. This time they were printed and embossed on the key collection pieces – from leggings to tops and leather accessories. Beside Origami, influence of the latest Laura’s trips to Tokyo and New York were also visible in a form of specially designed and colourful prints for leggings.
/ LINA GUDANAVICIUTE /
Another old-timer of this Baltic fashion event Lina Gudanaviciute has appeared at the ‘Fashion Infection’ for the fifth time. Her latest collection ‘Twinset’ celebrated a very clean, minimalist design featuring two key garments this autumn – coat and prolonged vest. Lina delightfully played with the chunky cuts and thick all-natural fabrics, showing a number of ways to wear a coat and vest together as well pair them with other items in our wardrobes.
The second time ‘Fashion Infection’ participant, discovered after last year’s ‘Injection’, Eva Baliul this time went for very youthful and playful collection conceptually tittle ‘#TBT’. It has been designed for a determined, straightforward, trend-seeking woman who can change faster than the world around her. Inspired by a healthy feeling of fear, when the cold chills run through the back and adrenaline rush makes the heart beat faster, the collection looked expressive and colourful as our emotions at such moments, light and unisex.
The honor to close the 16th ‘Fashion Infection’ this time has been granted to a talented designer Egidijus Sidaras, who presented his collection for the fashion house ‘Cantas’ for the eighth year in a row. ‘Clean hands 2’ represented designer’s interpretation of the classic and always trendy white-black combination and his signature take on the classic silhouettes. Modern jeanswear inspired details for classic suits, unexpected prints and cut for ultra feminine trenches, coats and dresses, just proved Egidijus’ talent for deconstructing classic cuts, making them modern and extremely desirable.
Text & collages by
Gabriele Pajedaite @ Kristina Goes West